In Japan, they like food to be as fresh as possible. That preference defines the teppanyaki steakhouses, DIY okonomiyaki pancake spots and ikizukuri, seafood served and eaten while the heart beats on.

While researching this week's review of Chinese-American shabu shabu restaurants in the Richmond and Sunset, I called Tadashi Ono, the chef of Matsuri in New York and coauthor of Japanese Hot Pots. I ...